This deck does onboard HDR10+ and Dolby Vision, but my display doesn't support DV, only HDR10+. I am running a Cambridge Audio CXUHD UHD Blu-ray player, coincidentally, which is pretty much an Oppo 203 clone.
Spears and munsil 4k hdr movie#
Sharpness is set by Samsung out of the box at "0" in Movie SDR and HDR mode, and from what I have been told by people who measured these displays with equipment, "0" is the proper level as this doesn't add any "oversharpening." So I think I am okay with these settings. I leave the color, brightness (black level), sharpness, color tone (Warm2), gamma and color space (auto) alone, as these are pretty much spot-on in SDR mode (everything looks pretty accurate in HDR at these levels). So I believe those parameters are correct for HDR playback. When my display senses an HDR signal, it automatically goes into, in my case, HDR-Movie and sets the backlight to maximum, contrast to maximum, local dimming to high and the gamma curve to the proper HDR algorithm (2084 I think it is for HDR10?). Indeed, I am in the most accurate mode on my Samsung NU8000 - which is "Movie," and I use this for both SDR and HDR playback. I don't remember on the Xbox as I don't use it for BD/UHD BD. I don't have enough experience with Samsung or Sony to know if their players offer a way.
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Not an ideal way to go as you would need to know what the content is. They have a different setting for 1000 nits vs. On a Sony display, you may need to adjust contrast to manage highlight clipping and some have come up with different contrast settings based on content metadata. As long as your room is light controlled, brightness is also usually correct. In most cases, the proper cinema mode, usually has sharpness correct. Sharpness and Brightness are perceptual controls, so they can be adjusted. You will fight with tone mapping while adjusting, unless you have an LG and CalMAN, which disables tone mapping for HDR calibration.
Spears and munsil 4k hdr software#
You also have CMS and multipoint grayscale that you can adjust, assuming you have the meter and software to run it. LG and Sony do not default to the ideal mode. You need to find the correct picture mode to use. Also, if they were to remove it, customers would complain they lost the ability to adjust it. It is only on TVs today for legacy reasons. On a CRT, this would drift over time, so you had the control to compensate.
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The color and tint control should have been removed from displays as soon as we went digital. This is why a blue only mode, in the right place in display chain, is the only thing that will work. A spikey spectral response of the display can also break them. A CMS system, which all digital displays use, can break the filter. We received a lot of emails from the 2nd edition where the blue filter does not work, which we also mention in our articles, and we say yes, they don't work.
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The Picture Perfect filter, from Dixons, is also Tokyo Blue with 2x. When you stack more layers on top of each other, it makes the notch tighter and tighter, but also dimmer and dimmer. In the link, you can see the filter shape for Tokyo Blue. If someone really wants a filter, we can send them one. Our filter from the first two editions, the THX glasses and Joe Kane's filters are all the same Tokyo Blue filter material.